Here’s an overview of the origins, notable achievements, and trajectory of Audemars Piguet (AP) and by extension, the venerable Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (But we'll get to that):

Audemars Piguet, one of the most prestigious names in Swiss watchmaking, has a rich history dating back to its founding in 1875. Here’s an overview of the origins, notable achievements, and trajectory of Audemars Piguet (AP) and by extension, the venerable Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (But we'll get to that):

The Origins of Audemars Piguet

The brand was founded by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in Le Brassus, Switzerland, a small village in the Vallée de Joux region, which is known for its exceptional watchmaking tradition. Both founders were highly skilled watchmakers: Audemars specialized in complex watch movements, while Piguet focused on the regulation and final inspection of timepieces. Together, they established "Audemars, Piguet & Cie" and set a mission to create advanced and complicated movements that would set the brand apart in a competitive watchmaking landscape.

Early in-house movements

Audemars Piguet produced its first watches in 1875, and from the beginning, it set itself apart by specializing in high-complication movements, such as perpetual calendars, chronographs, and minute repeaters. These complications, which require intense precision and skill, were crafted entirely in-house — a tradition that continues to define AP to this day. Many of these early watches were custom pieces made for wealthy patrons, and even in its early years, AP was known for the precision, durability, and beauty of its designs.

Throughout the early 20th century, Audemars Piguet remained committed to crafting complicated watches, which gained the brand recognition among collectors and enthusiasts. In 1921, AP produced the world's first jumping-hour wristwatch, and in 1934, the brand created the thinnest pocket-watch movement with a thickness of only 1.32 mm.

The Rise to Fame of the Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet’s global popularity surged with the release of the iconic Royal Oak in 1972. Designed by Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak was revolutionary, featuring a bold, octagonal bezel with visible screws, an integrated bracelet, and a distinctively thin case. The watch was made in stainless steel (rather than precious metals), which was unusual for high-end luxury watches at the time. Although initially polarizing due to its unconventional design and high price point, the Royal Oak eventually became a game-changer for Audemars Piguet and the entire watch industry. This model redefined luxury sports watches and remains a cornerstone of the brand’s lineup.

In-House Movements and Recent Innovations

Audemars Piguet continues to develop and manufacture its movements in-house, maintaining a reputation for high-quality, intricate calibers. In addition to pioneering ultra-thin movements, AP has also advanced in tourbillon technology, chronographs, and high-complication pieces, producing watches that combine traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation. Models like the Royal Oak Offshore, Royal Oak Concept, and Code 11.59 collections showcase AP’s ability to push the boundaries of design and movement technology.

Legacy and Popularity Today

The success of the Royal Oak cemented Audemars Piguet's place in luxury watchmaking, and today, AP is recognized as one of the "Holy Trinity" of Swiss watchmakers, alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Their in-house movements, meticulous attention to detail, and cutting-edge designs have cultivated a devoted following among collectors and enthusiasts.

The Need for a Bold New Direction

In the late 1960s and early 1970s, the Swiss watch industry faced significant challenges. The arrival of quartz watches (the so-called “Quartz Crisis”) threatened traditional Swiss mechanical watchmaking, as quartz watches were more accurate, affordable, and durable than their mechanical counterparts. Amidst this upheaval, Audemars Piguet recognized the need to create something groundbreaking to stand out in the evolving market.

During this period, luxury watches were typically small, delicate, and made of precious metals like gold or platinum. AP decided to take a bold step in a different direction by creating a luxury sports watch – a concept that was essentially unheard of at the time.

The Designer: Gérald Genta

In 1971, Audemars Piguet turned to Gérald Genta, an influential watch designer who had previously worked with Omega, Universal Genève, and Patek Philippe. Known for his daring designs, Genta was given a brief by AP’s then-managing director Georges Golay the night before the 1971 Basel Fair: create a unique luxury sports watch in stainless steel that would appeal to a younger and more daring audience.

Genta was inspired by the design of a diver’s helmet, which featured visible screws and a bold, industrial appearance. He quickly sketched out the now-iconic Royal Oak design, with its distinct octagonal bezel, exposed screws, integrated bracelet, and “tapisserie” patterned dial. Genta himself famously described the design as his "masterpiece."

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